Arriving into Ivory Coast was extremely easy. At the border
all the guards were toasted, completely hammered. The looks we got were
priceless. We were told we were the first tourist they have ever seen. They
said almost no one goes to that particular border crossing. After seeing the
roads I can completely understand. We free
camped about 5 km away from the border in another small village. We set up camp
and once again we were the local village primetime entertainment. We were all
emotionally and physically drained that we didn’t do much conversing with the
locals. After dinner we hung out on the truck and drank a few warm beers and
tried to wind down. My back was spasming from 11 hours of getting bashed around
the truck. Someone told Suse I was in pain and she requested Nico and I in the
front because the roads were going to be bad for the next 50 something km.
The next morning we
started off and within minutes we had to cross a broken bridge. Nico, myself
and Suse built the bridge with logs we found and got the truck over safely.
Within a few more km there was no bridge, and water up to the waste. Rosie air
filter is under the truck and if water gets in the truck blows up. Suse took
out the air filter, and bunch of hoses. An hour later we successfully crossed
our first river. Rosie made it with no problems. At this time we knew we were
in for a very long day. We drove over rivers, broken bridges, and ruts the size
of a VW bug. We were traveling around 5-7km an hour. These roads were
miserable, in the back of our minds we remembered only being 4km yesterday away
from the better border crossing and only 15km from tar roads. TIS (this is
Africa)! Around 4pm the rains started and we had to stop and let them pass.
After the rains we had to walk couple of km because the roads were so muddy
Suse was afraid Rosie would slide into a rut or roll. It took us a few hours
but eventually we got to a tar road 38km from Man. Suse got out of the truck
and kissed the tar road. We all cheered and were extremely happy. Next stop
Man!!! We drove into Man and luck would have it we found a great little hotel.
People who wanted to upgrade could for a room with a fan for $10 or A/C for
$20. Nico and I shared a A/C room. They hotel didn’t have running water but
they staff who worked it kept filling bucket of water for the toilets and
showers. It was my first time in 9 days that I felt clean. The hotel also had
cold beers. Suse told us that we would stay tonight and the next night. She
also said that the hotel can arrange to see stilt dancers in the morning. We
were told that watching the dancers is a privilege and it is very rare to see.
Not many locals have ever seen them. They usually only perform for royalty.
The next day was a relaxing, it was the first day in nine
that we didn’t have to wake up early and take off on an all-day drive. Most of
us went into Man to get CFA currency. In the afternoon we were told about a
waterfall that had water and we could swim and bathe if wanted to. Majority of
us took a taxi about 2km away then walked 30 minutes up a very bad road to a
water that I could imagine being very beautiful if it had water in in. Yuup we
are now two for two for waterfalls and starting to give up on the thought of
cold flowing water to rinse and swim in. Around 1600hrs 15 of us minus Carlos
all piled into a very old beat up minivan and drove about 7km away to a
village. In front of us was a pickup truck loaded with 9 local drum players and
1 stilt dancer. When we got out of the van all the villagers came to see what
was going on. The music and singing started and the stilt dancer got out of the
truck and that’s when all craziness started. The villagers ran away scared
until they figured out what was going on. Everyone started clapping and singing
the children became less scared. We slowly made our way up a tail into the
actual village. There were two seats for the chief and his son. We all sat on
benches and the rest of the villagers circled around us. The dancer honored the
chief first then he danced for a while. We found out later that the dancer is
the equivalent to a shaman. I was the first one picked to dance with the stilt
dancer. I had no idea what I was picked for. At first I thought I was to kneel
down because he told me to take off my shoes. Then I realized I needed to
dance. I danced a very short dance then had to fork over some money. It was
well worth the $4 us dollars I paid for a chance of a lifetime to do something
so unexpected. Next came Nico, then Ben did a booty shake and the whole town
erupted in laughs, Rhse did a dance off, Toby did the dancing bull (don’t ask J), Steph did the
shuffle, and Denise did an Irish folk dance. All of this the stilt dancer tried
to mimic. It was a imaginative and original night to say the least.
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