Angola

Angola… The unknown country, the country I was 95% sure I would have to fly over. It took us all day to cross into Angola. The problem was after we got stamped and officially let into Angola, the border guys refused to let Suse go into the country without a police escort. Not because of it being dangerous, or that the country was in a civil war four years ago. No, they wouldn’t let us drive on our own because they were not used to tourist so they weren’t sure how the local would react. Well the police escort took 3 hours to arrive and by that time it was after 5 o’clock and almost dark. Not to mention that the police that arrived were pissed drunk and ended up taking two piss stops within the first two hours. It turns out that the police were supposed to escort us to Luanda (ha) that was another two days away. We arrived at the first town we came to and the police treated us like we were the president of the United States. Telling any cars behind us they need to give us room. Cook group had to stop and do some shopping (what a joke) the police once again wouldn’t let anyone but the cook group to get out of Rosie. They basically escorted Jareb, Brittany, and Toni around while they bought bread and veggies. Not sure what the turn of events that happened but about 30 minutes after we left the village (it’s almost dark and past the normal time we bush camp). Suse either pulled over or we slowed up enough that the police stopped, but after a 5 minute conversation the police went one way and we went the other. Two minutes later we found a dirt construction turn off and we had our official free camp of Angola.

The next day was a long day, and I was going on day number two of severe back problems. Sometimes I not sure what I was thinking having a bad back overlanding. Most times a little pain is well worth the beauty and adventure of overlanding. The day was mostly dirt roads, they were good to standards of dirt but my back was giving me sharp pains going after ever bump. That night we arrived at the best free camp spot yet (only thing lacking was a water hole for a bath) we arrived at sunset with one huge baobab tree  and so much room we all got to get away from each other and have some privacy. For the last 3 countries we have completely lucked out on bush camps. Every place has been from road construction. I guess I have to thank the Chinese for building a road and completely raping beautiful Africa of its natural resources (I say this sarcastically, 5 years from now there will be a super highway through Western Africa and all of its national resources gone or depleted)! This free camp was great, we built a huge fire, had a great meal, I took a flexural (muscle relaxer) and passed out.

Woke up with more pains, and really needed a few days of not traveling to rest my back. We had a half day and drove to the capitol of Angola Luanda. We arrived at 3 at a marina that overlooks a stunning skyline of Luanda. The skyline of Luanda is completely covered with skyscrapers and heavy machinery building more skyscrapers. I felt like I was at a marina looking at San Diego. Turns out I was completely mistaken about Pointe Noire, Congo… Luanda is the most expensive city in Africa, and ranked second most expensive city in the world (Tokyo being first). We all had different experience over the next 3 nights while staying there. First night, we showered and chilled. The next day was Sunday, and everything was closed. I mean everything! It was our turn for cook group, and Cecilie and I told Maria to relax and we will walk into the main city and see what we can find (ha). We stopped at a pizza place for lunch and after water and a large pizza to share ($30). That’s about $10 bucks more expensive than back home, but I figured that’s what you get for western food in a big city. We lucked out and found one lady on the side of the road selling onions, tomatoes, potatoes, carrots, and green peppers. It cost us $15 for all our veggies which was barely enough to make a soup. We bought a box of cereal for $5 bucks and that was our budget. Once we started cooking we found out that on Sundays there are no taxis and Toni who was supposed to leave at 11pm had to leave at 6pm. We all said our goodbyes, it was really sad, we are all going to miss Toni (aka the godfather). 

The next day was laundry and internet day. Did all my laundry in the shower, and by 11 Talbot, Cecilie and I were walking to the internet café. It coast $6 for two hours, but I was able to get all the research I needed to do for South Africa. Booked a room for 6 nights, and super excited. After two hours Cecile and I got completely raped, bent over and f*cked (no lube, no reach around). We were hungry and on our walk back to the marina we stopped at a local food buffet. You fill your plate then pay depending on weight. I really didn’t want to eat there but looking at the food, and the fact that only business locals were eating there, we thought it would be cheap. I put a small salad (lettuce, carrots and beets), rice, beans, French fries, and mash potatoes (all of this ¾ of a plate)… $23 dollars later, Cecilie salad $17 dollars. We were so pissed!!!! It was time to leave Luanda! When we got back to our campground we found out some shocking but yet understandable news. Carlos, who I don’t talk much about (because we don’t see eye to eye or get along) was asked to leave. For privacy that is all I will talk about the subject.

We left for the border of Namibia, we knew it would be at least two days of bush camping (equals long days), but most likely 3 bush camps until we were in Namibia. Not going to lie, the mood and energy of the truck after losing Carlos and Toni was good. We are all going to miss Toni, and hopefully he will meet the group in Ethiopia. No longer having Carlos we lost the feeling of walking on egg shells. People were laughing, playing cards and the mood and tempo was great. That night we free camped at another great spot with lots of wood. We made a kick ass bonfire, ate some great soup that Jarebs group made and called it an early night.

The next day was one of the hardest for me. Not because it was another long day, but ¾ into the drive the road crews were in full force and we had to take many detours off of the main road. One detour we stopped for a good 15 minutes, there was a construction vehicle blocking the way. We had no idea what was going on until 50 meters in front of us they blew up the road with dynamite. Fuck me I thought I was back in Iraq. The rest of the day brought not so good memories and that night I was cursed with many nightmares. Not to mention my back was still sending me sharp pains. Great bush camp again! We have now reached cold nights and warm days. It’s time to bring out the extra sleeping bags. I can’t believe I am saying this, but I am actually going to miss bush camping. Before I left on this trip, that was my biggest concern was camping part of the trip. After the military I was completely burned out of camping. I love it now!

After a 0715 take off we drove to the city Labango where there is one of the three statues of Jesus. The other two are in Rio, and Lisbon. The story goes that the guy who built the statues was an artist and his wife and son were sailing across from Portugal when a storm sunk the ship and he lost his wife and child. The statue in Angola represents his son, the one in Portugal represents his wife, and the one in Brazil represents himself. All the Jesus statues face the location where his family died...