Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Cameroon




Thinking back now it feels like we have been in Cameroon for months, but really its only been two weeks. We crossed in Ekok, and the roads were luckily not as bad as anticipated they were bad really bad, but we were very lucky because there wasn’t serious rain. We had 80km until pavement so keep our fingers cross it wasn’t going to take 8 days like the previous trans. We actually made it about 60km with only one hiccup (a very serious one that is) we were passing another truck when they pushed us off the road into 2 feet of mud. Our bed of the truck was at a 45 degree angle and we almost rolled. The truck honked and drove away without helping us (assholes). We spent about an hour trying to dig Rosie out of her predicament and we finally got a road construction truck to get pull us out. That was the only real answer. Unfortunately it cost us 10,000 CFA ($20). We bush camped that night at a really cool place. It was a clearing for the road workers to get gravel (China is building a super highway through Cameroon, in 3 years it will be finished and China will reap all of Cameroon trees). Once we arrived it started to pour down rain. Myself, Maria, Cecilie, and Toby all stripped down in our undies and washed ourselves in the tropical rain storm. There was also a ankle high river close by that we washed our hair in.
The next morning myself and Talbot road upfront with Suse, I felt honored that she trusted me because of the roads. About an hour before we took off it started to rain again. Once it stopped we attempted to drive off and once again Rosie started slipping. We tried several attempts but the only thing happening was our back end was sliding and we were eventually going to slide into the river we washed our hair in. A couple locals, Suse, Talbot and myself carried buckets and buckets of gravel and tried to get traction for Rosie, but after an hour of her still slipping we had another 4x4 road semi-truck to pull us up the hill. He only wanted a beer. Suse said she will always pay someone for offering to help no demanding it. If the situation was reversed she would pull them out for free. She also slipped 5,000 francs to the driver. The rest of the 20km was a muddy mess. It was only one lane road and many times we had to stop and let oncoming trucks go first. After the 20km of mud, the roads turned to pavement. We ended up finding a shortcut missing 100km. This shortcut was at one time a dirt road, but recently it was converted to tar. We ended up free camping in a small unknown village. All the locals came out and watch our cook group cook a rice and tomato dish. We bought some wood from the villagers and made a nice fire everyone could stand around while we cooked.
The next day we had a short drive day and arrived at Limbe around 2. We stayed at a really nice hotel that had a pool, and a restaurant. The place to camp was small but it worked out because Sarah, Denise, and Suse upgraded. I wasn’t planning on it because I was planning to climb Mount Cameroon. The rest of the day I spent it finding a ATM (I had to pay back $200 because my card wasn’t “smart” in Nigeria). I also found a bakery and ate chocolate covered croissants.
The next day I spent the day preparing to go up to Mount Cameroon. It was going to be Nico, Cecilie, Jareb, Talbot and myself. It was 40,000 francs ($80). That included the hut at camp 2 (if you called it that), guide, and 3 porters for all of us. We brought warm clothes, rain gear, and enough food and water for two days. The plan was to leave at 6 from Limbe to the town 45 minutes away were we started the hike. Day one we walked to 2,700 meters spend the night then wake up a 4 in the morning and hike 5 or so hours to the summit which was 4,097 meters.
The next day we all were extremely excited and couldn’t wait the adventure we were about to embark. It was so early that none of us got coffee (which turns out couldn’t have been my biggest mistake). Next thing I know we have 3 porters (one of them wearing flip flop sandals) a guide (wearing shower shoes) and the 5 of us hiking Mt. C… Within 30 minutes I was cursing myself for being stupid enough to want to do this. Finding out later that every one of us was feeling the same thing. The first day we hiked little less than 2,000 meters. The journey was tough, but I felt good. I knew that the next day I would be sore, but I couldn’t wait. Day 1 was about 15 minutes of hiking straight up then a few minutes break. Day 1 myself, Jareb, and Cecilie were the best hikers. Nico is about 50 pounds heavier than the rest of us, and Talbot knee was giving him problems. We arrived at our hut around 3pm. This hut was a shithole and looked like something off a horror movie. Completely rat infested. The weather was getting cold, so I changed out of my shorts and put on long underwear, pants, and a hoodie. Put our sleeping bags on this elevated planks of wood that was completely miserable to sleep on. We ate an early dinner and by 7pm we all called it a night. I was starting to get a headache. I thought it was from not drinking coffee. That night was one of the worst night sleeps I have ever had. My sleeping bag is a summer one not made for cold, and the wood planks we slept on were uneven causing my back to go into spasms. It was absolutely awful and my head was pounding worse and worse.
 We woke up at 4:30 (a little late) that is if you call it woke up. Most of us minus Talbot slept horrible. He was the only one who brought an air mate. Our guide told us the sleeping area was suspended and we didn’t need to take one. We all threw on warm clothes and within 10 minutes we were hiking. Our guide Mattious was a complete ass this morning. He told us no way Nico will make it and that if it rains he will turn us around. He said that Nico will slow us up. That and he kept asking Cecilie if she was alright (like she was the weakest link). After 20 minutes of basically running up the steep hill. I stopped and waited for Nico. I also needed a break because my head was pounding so badly, and I felt like I was going to throw up. Every time I drank water I thought I was going to hurl. Mattious told us to stop further up the mountain. I told him he can, but I am waiting for Nico. After Nico caught up with us, I approached our guide and told him I didn’t know I needed my running shoes. He told me that Nico will not make it. I told him that Nico hasn’t complained once and he WILL make it. I then told him that we are a group and we will make it as a group. I told him that if he had a problem with that then he could go ahead of us and forget about his tip. He said he was worried about the rain. At this time there was an electrical storm below us, and stars above us. I told him if it rained then so fucking be it. Mattious said he understood, and we continued mission. Everyone smiled at me, and said I just went ARMY on our guide… I was still hurting and feeling worse every step I took closer to the summit. That rest of the hike was terrible. I haven’t felt that sick in such a long time. By the time we reached hut 3, I was freezing and still on the verge of throwing up. The summit was 45 minutes away and there was no way I was going to give up. 40 minutes later (40 minutes of digging deep, very deep) we all made it. It was extremely cold, and I finally hurled on top of the summit. 30 minutes or so later we were done taking pictures and we were going as fast as we could to hut 3 to pick up our stuff and head down the mountain. By the time I reached hut 2 I was even sicker, stopping every 200 meters to puke. When I reached hut 2 I collapsed, to sick to pack anything up. I was the second person to arrive. Cecilie being very nice packed up my stuff while I tried I feel asleep. At this point I wasn’t sure if I was dehydrated, coffee withdrawals, or altitude sickness. Once everyone got back to hut 2 and packed all their stuff it started to torrential pour down rain. We had no choice but to start our treacherous trek back down the way we came back. Cecilie carried my stuff and even gave me her water. That 3 hours back down was one of the hardest hiking ever. There is no real trail, and the grass and rocks were so wet that all I kept downing was slipping and falling down the mountain. By the end of the decent I couldn’t lift my feet and I was a falling idiot. By 5pm we were on a taxi back home to Limbe. After 30 minutes and a redbull I realized my headache was gone and I was feeling so much better. Turns out I don’t do well in altitude, and I had altitude sickness. On our way home from the trek, our taxi got stopped by police who wanted to see our passports. We didn’t have them with us so I told them they were in Yaounde getting visas for Gabon and Congo. The cop started yelling at me so me being tired and irritated I started yelling back to the point in which everyone thought I was going to be spending the night in Cameroon prison. He wanted a bribe and I wasn’t going to give it to him. I was tired, hungry and not happy. Our taxi driver gave the cops 1,000 francs and they let us go. That night I slept so great!
The next morning we drove to Yaounde… I loved Yaounde!!! It was the 2rd of July and we arrived pretty late. We had our first blow out of a tire. It was the back passengers inside tire. Our cook group made a stew which Cecilie added a little too much local spices and Toni gave me a yelling. Good old Toni, you almost got to love him. He is German and says what he thinks but doesn’t hold a grudge.
3rd of July I spent shopping and eating at the bakery that we found close to missionary we were staying at.
The next morning I woke up a little home sick, and really wished I was on Matt’s house boat watching the fireworks. Found out that during the night someone snuck up in the truck while Toni was sleeping and stole two bags off the seats. Sarah’s, which had her hard drive (all her pictures) Camera, $300 worth of money, charging equipment, and Talbot who got his iPad, journal, wallet (with his name embroidered by his father who died, one of two things he has of his fathers) and $150… I was lucky that that evening I grabbed my laundry that was hanging on the line and threw it on my seat with my bag…   That afternoon, Cecilie and I were walking towards a super market called Casino when we noticed a Asian restaurant. We stopped in and the next thing I know we were sitting next to an American chief warrant officer named Erika, and a local restaurant owner named Phi. He was from LA and Erika was from Ohio. By the end of the meal I wasn’t homesick and we got invited to show up around 1930 hours to celebrate Cecilie birthday (which was the next day). At 1930 we showed up and I ended up meeting a Spanish lady who works at the International Red Cross, two marine soldiers, a navy seal, Erika, and Phi. We had a great night eating cake, and shooting the shit. I felt like I was at home, and it was a well needed break from everyone. Erika husband was on vacation and she invited C and I to her house to spend the night. We refused but the selling point was she had 2 extra bedrooms, all with baths and hot water. SOLD!!! By 2300hrs I was sitting inside this gorgeous military/ embassy issue 5 BD, 6 BR, 2 living room house watching the Armed Forces channel watching Texas play Chicago. I was in hog heaven. I slept in the most comfortable temperpedic bed.
The next day for Cecilie birthday she just wanted to chill and watch movies all day. So we did, and had a mini vacation from our vacation. We woke up to Erika's homemade bread, and her leaving for the day to go to work. It was such a relaxing day.
The next two days I spent getting caught up on blog, buying groceries for the next part of our adventure, and just relaxing. I must have eaten two more times at Phi's restaurant. I took everyone else there and we all had quite a feast. Between Erika and Phi, Yaoundewas one of the best places I have been to.
The next day we made it to Gabon…

Jareb and myself






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